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May 4
This morning we went into the village with Claire, Raoul and their little
boy Victor (from the S/V Calyptus) in search of bread. Finding none we
instead had a nice walk around the village and picked up some cold drinks
and some green lemons which are not limes.
We returned to the boat at around 11:30am and made preparations to depart.
By 12:30pm we were out of the bay motoring North in about 15k from the
ENE. Of course, the sun is shining brightly and it is very very hot. The
skies are mostly clear and the seas are 6-8ft from the NE. By the time we
were ready to raise the mainsail it was blowing about 20k and we raised it
with a single reef in it. We then let out the genoa part way and put the
motor in neutral. We are now making about 7.3k over ground in about 20k
wind from the ENE.
Our destination is Baie du Controuler on the island of Nuka Hiva, the
largest and most important of the Marquesas Islands. Comptroller Bay
contains three "lobes" the center of which is Tapivai the
"Typee" from Melville's book of the same name. We will most
likely anchor in Hooumi, the Easternmost of the three lobes on advice from
Raoul who has been there and reports it is the most calm and attractive.
It is now 2pm and we are approximately 18nm South of Nuka Hiva and expect
to arrive around 5pm.
We arrived in Baie Du Controuler at about 4:20pm local time and dropped
sail and motored into the righmost lobe (Hooumi) of the 3 in this huge
complex of bays. We were amazed to find no other boats at anchor and
gleefully surveyed the area before deciding where to drop the hook. Of
course, I picked a spot too close to one side of the bay and we upped
anchor and moved more over to the center and re-dropped it. This time we
decided to stay put.
The bay is deep with a sandy beach at the head. Tall cliffs rise on either
side of the bay to well over 200 feet (I think). The valley behind the
beach reaches back into the hills in a deep lush green cleft. Things are
very peaceful here and I think we will stay a few days.
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