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May 29
So far today has been an excellent day, and its only 10am! It didn't start
that way however. This morning I spoke on the radio with Michael from S/V
Destiny on the HF radio. Michael had agreed to check into our new
generator end which was sent to Nuku Hiva in care of Rose Corser. The plan
was for him to bring it down here to Makemo when he comes, which will be
next week. Alas, he reported that the part was stuck in customs on Tahiti
and that I needed to fax them (FedEx) copies of my boat's document (US
Registration) my passport and my clearance papers (issues when we entered
French Polynesia).
I went to the village to use the telephone but first I stopped at the
"snack" (French parlance for a small restaurant) where the
proprietor was reported to speak English. I asked if I could use here name
and address to have the package re-routed to Makemo and she wrote it down
for me. I then phoned FedEx in Tahiti where they readily agreed to alter
the package's destination (something which would be very hard to do in the
USA). I then went to the Post Office and faxed the required papers to
FedEx, then I phoned her back and she confirmed the receipt of the
paperwork and advised me the next flight to Makemo would be on Thursday.
She said she fully expected the package would be on that flight! So in
fact, it looks like we will get our new generator end (the part of the
genset which makes the electricity, as opposed to the part which drives it
- the engine - which is working fine) on Thursday! Much sooner then if it
were sent to Nuka Hiva and then brought here by another boat. At least a
week sooner!
Then, when I returned to the boat to tell Kate the good news, she was
jumping with joy because, on a lark, she tried the washing machine again
and it worked! If you've read my journal entry for yesterday you know that
I spent hours trying to find the problem only be end up frustrated and
exhausted from the effort. I have a theory as to why it is working now,
but it is better to just chalk it up to good luck and hope that it
continues (the luck that is).
Kate has just gone with Jonah back to the village to pick up our daily
bread from the bakery, then she is going to visit some women and try to
trade some junk we have for some black pearls. Of course, most people know
that the Tuomotus are famous as the place where black pearls are grown.
Apparently the people here have tons of them and treat them as currency
when bartering with foreigners who seem (for some odd reason) to value
them (Kate included). In the last few days 3 or 4 men have approached me
holding out handfuls of these things and asking if I have anything to
trade. I have asked what they want and they seem to all want music
cassettes or CDs, surfboards, bullets (which are illegal) and any
electronics like a walkman, or other devices. Frankly, I'm not sure what
Kate brought with her to trade, but I am certain it is nothing we really
need. In Papeete, nice Black Pearls can go for hundreds of dollars or even
thousands for really nice ones. Hopefully Kate will come away satisfied
that at least she got something she likes even if they are (probably) not
the most perfect specimens.
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