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June 17
Well, we have been here tucked behind a motu on the SE corner of Tahanea
for 3 days now, since we beat our way across the lagoon in 20+ knots on
Friday. I wrote in the Ship's Log about it (see Ship's Log 6/15/01) and
that evening we had Drew and Vernita from "Layla", along with
Chris and Markus, over for Lasagna dinner, which turned out great. I had
lent Drew my Shop Manual for the Kubota ES300 for his generator, which is
the same model as mine. He returned it Friday. On a lark I asked him if he
had a spare keyboard.
Of course, I was just looking for an opening to bitch about my broken
keyboard. He actually said he had one. He brought it over and lo and
behold it is a USB keyboard - just like the one which broke - it even has
a 2 port hub built in as my broken one had! He had it as a spare but he
uses a Laptop and has a wireless keyboard also which he uses with the
laptop, so he gave me the keyboard! I just couldn't believe my good
luck.
So, our main computer is back in business! I am still hoping my friend
Brian back in Seattle can find me another as a spare, which he will send
to my father who is coming to visit in a few weeks when we get to Moorea.
If this one breaks I don't want to be caught without a spare. Living
without it for the last 2 weeks has been hell. We've had to write email
and journals on the laptop and then transfer the files to the main
computer. Using the nav software has been equally frustrating as
everything had to be done with the mouse, and there are some things which
just couldn't be done at all (like assigning names to way points and
routes).
We are having a pleasant time here at Tahanea. We are still hoping the
weather will break so we can get back to the other side of the lagoon
where the pass is so we can do some diving here. But at least we are well
protected now and not subject to 8 miles of fetch which was brining us 2ft
chop in the anchorage on the other side. On the SSB every morning we hear
about other boats and most have done the same thing on their respective
atolls - i.e. moved to the other side of the lagoon and into the
protection of the motus on the windward side. Those who remain on the
leeward side are not having any fun.
We are really looking forward to seeing my dad and step-mom Barbara.
Especially Jonah who just jumps up and down with joy (yelling and howling)
whenever we mention their visit. We were unable to work out the details
for a visit from my mom and it will be some time before we see her again.
At least we are in email contact on a regular basis and with the web site
we have a way to keep her (and everyone else we can't see) kept up to date
on our life. The web has been really amazing for that and we couldn't
imagine being out here without having it as a way to keep in touch.
As for photos, many people are sending me email complaining about the lack
of recent photos. Well, we wish we could do better, but we are in a very
remote part of the world right now and we just can't upload photos via
email since we use Ham radio for that and the size of the photos is
prohibitive. Our last photos were for the month of April, but we have a
new page for May already prepared, its just that we need to find an
Internet connection before we can upload them. Hopefully in Fakarava, the
next atoll to our West we plan to stop at in a week or so will have an
Internet cafe.
In case anyone is curious, we plan to arrive in Papeete, Tahiti around
July 1st and spend a week in Papeete provisioning. After that we will head
around to the back side of Tahiti where there are no tourists and the Old
Tahiti can be found. Tahiti will be the first island we visit that has
both a central high island, like the Marquesas, and a fringing lagoon like
the Tuomotus. Most of the island of Tahiti can be circumnavigated within
the lagoon, though there are a few sections where you must go outside the
lagoon and then re-enter further down. Unlike the lagoons in the Tuomotus,
the lagoon is completely protected anywhere within the lagoon as the
central island protects you from wind on one side and the fringing reef
protects from wind on the other side! Most of the Society Islands, of
which Tahiti is the largest, have the same basic setup. After a week
exploring Tahiti we will make a short passage to Moorea where we will
anchor in Cook's Bay and spend a week with Jon and Barbara who will be
staying at the Sheraton Moorea Lagoon, also on Cook's Bay. Interestingly,
Captain Cook never visited the bay which bears his name - he anchored at
Oponohu Bay next door during his visit in the 18th century.
After Moorea our plans will depend on what happens in Papeete in 3 weeks.
We have sent in paperwork to the Haut Commissariat (High Commissioner)
requesting an extension to our 3 month visa, but we will not know the
result of that request until we get to Tahiti. Some boats have said that
you can find out the result of your request by phoning the office there,
but either way, you must appear before the 3 month visa expires to get the
new visa if it is issued. The whole thing is more complicated then it
needs to be and is really annoying. If we do get the visa, we will have
time to explore some of the other Society Islands, the ones less visited
by tourists, like Huahine, Raiatea/Tahaa and perhaps Maupiti or Mopelia,
two Society Islands which are atolls (ie. without a central island).
If not, we must leave the country (ie. French Polynesia) on or before
7/23, which is the day my dad leaves Moorea. We are really hoping they
give us the extra time because the Society Islands are among the most
beautiful in the world, and although Tahiti will be nice and Moorea
promises the opportunity to spend some time at a nice hotel with my dad (I
am especially looking forward to lolling about in a freshwater swimming
pool) Moorea, although lovely, is a bit more crowded and touristy then we
normally like and is no more beautiful then Huahine or Raiatea, islands
which have very little tourist infrastructure.
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