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July 19
Today is Friday the 19th (in Fiji - it may be Thursday the 18th as I write
this for many of you) and we are anchored at Mana Island in the
Mamanuthas, Fiji. Mana is a lovely island with great beaches and a fully
enclosing reef, though it is not an atoll in the true sense from what I
can see. The anchorage therefore is flat calm and thus is very
comfortable.
The island is inhabited by a village which occupies one part of the
Southern shore and a resort called, appropriately, Mana Island Resort. The
Resort is small but spread out and occupies is made up of about 75 two and
three bedroom cottages (with decent spacing between them) a dozen luxury
cottages (Bures) on the water at the far end of the beach and two
restaurants, a pool and a pier where the ferry docks. The ferry is a high
speed catamaran and shuttles workers, guests, and day trippers between the
different Mamanuthas. Many of the islands in this group are either
completely dominated by one or more resort or are exclusively owned by one
resort. The Beachcomber (Elevuka Island) and Treasure Island Resort (Etai
Island) each occupy their own islands as do several others.
Some islands are home to two resorts - Malololailai is home to Musket Cove
Resort and Yacht Club and the Plantation Island Resort (which is not on an
island called "Plantation") Musket Cove is one of the favorite
spots for cruising yachts in Fiji, and it is indeed a friendly place with
a nice little store, and fast ferry service to the mainland (Port Denerau
- a complex of several hotels and a marina just South of Nandi). And both
resorts (Musket and Plantation) welcome yachties to use the pool,
facilities, etc. Musket cove even has a "Yacht Club" which
issues memberships for $1to any foreign flagged yacht (which arrived in
the country under its own locomotion - vessels arriving in container ships
do not qualify!).
Meanwhile, the transmission saga continues, yes, we had hoped it was
finished, but alas... However, I can report that we are finally convinced
it is fixed and are confident our tranny troubles will be behind us
(ahem). The thing is, when we left the marina on Monday I had a serious
doubt building in my mind about the alignment (the engine and gearbox have
to be properly aligned with the prop shaft). When we got to Navadra, after
about five hours motoring, I had by then developed serious concerns and I
had several points of evidence to support my suspicion.
First, the engine sound was different, though I knew what caused the
change. Second, the installer radically changed the position of the engine
by jacking up the front about 2 inches more then it used to be. I didn't
question it at the time because had little confidence that I knew what I
was doing and assumed the bozo I was paying knew more. Always a big
mistake, but a pit I fall for every time. The change in sound was caused
by the port side alternator (which is bolted to the engine of course)
having been moved too high so that it no longer rubbed against the engine
box wall the same way as before (we had to cut a section of insulation out
when we first installed the alternator to make room for it in the very
tight space of the engine box - when he jacked up the engine the
alternator was no longer centered in this "hole" but instead was
pushing at the top of it). This caused the change in sound, and I can
report now that having re-aligned the engine today it is back to making
the same sound as before (which is a slight squeaky, hissing noise coming
from the spinning alternator being pressed up close to the
insulation).
The final and most damning clue was the missing fluid from the reservoir
for our shaft seal (stuffing box). The shaft seal on our boat is an oil
filled tube with lip seals at each end (the stuffing box is used to
prevent water leaking into the boat where the prop shaft exits through a
big hole in the boat - the seal keeps water from entering around the edges
of the shaft where it fits in the hole). Anyway, the seal is oil filled,
like I said, and has a nipple on top to which a rubber hose connects it to
a reservoir (app. 1 pint) which sits above it where we can easily see it
and re-fill it. The reservoir normally seeps a small bit of oil (into the
sea) over time and we normally have to refill it every 2 months or so.
When we arrived at Navadra I noticed it was (almost) empty. This can be
caused by the shaft not going down the middle of the seal in a straight
line.
The problem, by the way, of having a misaligned shaft are serious. Damage
to the stuffing box, cutlass bearing (a bearing on the end of the prop
shaft just behind the stuffing box) and the transmission itself will all
occur sooner or later if an engine is allowed to turn while not aligned.
So I knew it was not aligned properly and decided that I had no choice but
to try to fix it myself. But first we had to leave Navadra as the
anchorage was getting more and more roly that the idea of working on the
engine - especially of something as tricky as this was unthinkable.
So, we get to Mana yesterday afternoon (and scraped the keel on a nice big
coral head, another story) and we find our friends Brian and June on
"Daruma". Brian works at the Tauranga Bridge Marina where we
stayed last summer in New Zealand. Brian is also the fellow who flew up to
meet us with our friend Anders (S/V Scafhogg) after our collision near
Great Barrier Island (see Dec. 3rd-5th 2001) even though we had never met.
Fortunately Brian has a lot of experience with boats including experience
aligning engines. He spent about 4 hours with me this morning and we
completely got it nailed now.
And, of course, it was a damn good thing I addressed the issue because it
was so bad that damage would have begun to occur within ours if we had
continued to use it the way it was. First off, it was WAY out of
alignment. The back of the engine seemed to have shifted to one side and
you could see a huge gap in the coupling on one side while the other side
was so tight there was no gap at all.
Then we discovered the bozo had not even tightened the mounting bolts. No
joke - the aft mounting bolts were completely loose, both the vertical and
the horizontal adjustments (allen set screws) were loose. So of course the
engine had been sliding about back there probably since we left Vunda Pt.
Amazing. We had to put a block and tackle on the back of the engine and
haul it over to starboard to get it lined up properly, after we lowered
the fwd, port corner of course back its normal height. We then bolted
everything down tight and checked it again and it is spot on!
We bought June and Brian lunch with plenty of drinks and have been
relaxing for the rest of the afternoon. Kate and I are still discussing
what we will do next, we will probably leave tomorrow and head back North
to the Yasawas. There is reported to be a lovely spot where Manta Rays
congregate, I think off Naviti, and then there is the "Blue
Lagoon" at Nanuya-I-Sawa where both the original (Gene Simmons) and
the remake (Brooke Shields) movies of the same name were filmed. By
tomorrow, after we have motored a few hours, we will know for sure if
everything is kosher with the tranny.
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