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September 15
We are in a bay on Maewo in Vanuatu. There several small
"villages" scattered around but they are more like extended
family compounds. In fact they run into each other and to my eye it looks
like one very small village. We met some Americans on the yacht
"Noason" and they have been coming here for a couple of years.
It is handy as they helped with information about what was proper and how
to deal with the chief, etc.
The bay is wonderful and has a lovely waterfall which we have a delightful
view of from our cockpit. The fresh water runs into the bay unfortunately
killing the coral on that side of the bay but we don't care as it is too
rainy to snorkel or swim.
Last night we attended a feast given by Chief Jackson and enjoyed local
fare with the local drink Kava. Kava is a plant whose roots they grind to
produce a sharp strong drink which is very slightly inebriating. There are
4 other boats here and 3 of them attended the feast also. This for a small
fee and functions as the gift to the village for staying there. I have
donated kids books for the school and will give some kids clothes to the
nurse at the dispensary. I am not sure at how good the nurse is but it is
impressive that they have a facility. The chief also arranged some Kustom
Dancing. Kustom really means Traditional/our way. There exists very
traditional villages in Vanuatu that still live in the old way - with
grass skirts etc. But most of them have been converted by missionaries and
it seems practical to be wearing modern clothes. Certainly this village
seems to have really dealt with the harsh realities of modern life.
Certainly they are dependent on basic supplies (rice, flour..) that come
from Santo. Indeed life was extremely harsh when they could only depend on
a infrequent freighter which might not turn up. The Yacht
"Noason"has been functioning at a no cost freighter and bring
basic supplies (for which they are repaid) for the village when they are
in Vanuatu.
The people are dark skinned like the Fijians but they seem to have more of
strong hint of the Aborigine. The Fijians look like they are Africans. The
people all have lean hard bodies accustomed to a light low fat diet. Even
the children seem to have a muscled sinewy look to them. The chiefs hut
has two electric bulbs in it but otherwise it is a hut with an earth
floor. At night they pull mats out to sleep.
They are rather shy and I have myself at a loss of words. I feel like a
ridiculous wealthy white person who they regard in a patient deferential
manner. Small societies are so subtle in their manners and in their
customs.
Yesterday we walked to the school - a whopping 500 feet down a single lane
footpath. There they have a volleyball court and the church. They had
slaughtered a bull the day before and its huge head lay underneath a large
tree. Jonah was thrilled. I smiled a lot and gave some balloons to the
kids.
Today we are still waiting for the weather to improve. Jordan got bored
and made Chinese dumplings. Yum. We might go to the waterfall again for
fun.
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