Photo Gallery - June 2003
Second Half!
Pictures can be clicked to see a large
version of the image.
The
Port Resolution Yacht Club. As in other parts of Vanuatu, the term "Yacht
Club" has a different meaning then in the US or other developed countries.
Here it means simply a place for yachties to congregate, usually with a bar.
Sometimes, as here, they include a few bungalows rented out by the night or week
(though usually not to yachties).
This
is the exterior of the club. In Tanna they also use the club as a meeting place
for guided hikes, tours, and especially trips to the volcano. When we were
there the fridge was broken so there was no cold beer, hence no one spent any
time there, except to look around.
View
of the anchorage at Port Resolution from the yacht club. Last year was the first
year Vanuatu allowed cruising yachts to clear customs in Tanna. Before that
boats had to come to Port Vila first. Since Tanna lies upwind of Vila, very,
very few cruising boats ever came to Port Resolution. Villagers told me they
would see one or two boats in the bay sometimes. Now there are a dozen. The
villagers seem pleased since it means income for them.
The
village at Port Resolution, called Ireupuow, is home to about 150 very happy,
smiling, friendly people. Their village is very pleasant, clean and well tended.
Some
washing hanging out to dry.
Unlike
many villages we have seen, both here in Vanuatu (last year) and in other
Pacific countries, Ireupuow has a wonderful grassy
A
John Frum cross in Ireupuow village in Port Resolution, Tanna. The
weather-stained red paint on the cross can barely be seen. The cross is a mimic
of a Red Cross and is a symbol of the John Frum cargo cult.
A
Canadian family on one of the boats had three sons who were all training for
careers in martial arts, their father their temporary trainer while they
cruised. They put on a demonstration in the village Sunday afternoon and
almost everyone in the village attended.
The
best part of it for us was watching the villagers react to the moves with
excitement, surprise and joy. They were truly loving every second of it and
applause, laughter and shouts of glee were rolling over the crowd as they
reacted en masse.
I
was so busy shooting the crowd I barely got any shots of the action! This one
shows two of the boys doing some kind of show-exercise of Japanese origin. They
did other demonstrations from a variety disciplines.
Several
times during the sparring sessions (they sparred using straight boxing,
kick-boxing and stick fighting techniques) one of the boys would come close to
the first row of people sitting and the whole crowd squealed and moved back like
a school of fish would move.
On
the way to Mt. Yasur Jonah and I rode in the back of the pickup with the guide
and a guy from a Belgian boat. The two women, Kate and the Belgian woman, sat in
the cab with the driver. This shot was taken over the top of the cab and shows
the dense jungle terrain of Tanna.
Another
shot from the same perspective. Roads on Tanna are barely suggestions of a real
road. The jungle would cover them in a month if the traffic stopped. We did not
visit Lenekal the administrative center for the district which includes Tanna,
Erromango and Anatom, but we understand they have several miles of paved road
there.
Also
in the back of the truck with us, Sebastian, was a local who was in training to
become a volcano guide. He said he had been to the volcano several times
already. Our guide, Stanley, was very friendly and took care of everything,
including arguing with the park entrance fee taker who wouldn't let Stanley pay
him tomorrow since I had no Vatu only US dollars.
The
slope leading up to the cone of the volcano was covered in volcanic ash and sand
with sharp volcanic rocks spread about liberally as if from a saltshaker a mile
high.
To
get to the lip of the cone we had to hike up the ash covered slopes. Of course,
we all wore sandals, not the smartest footwear for the task. The guides,
however, were all barefoot as is everyone in Vanuatu.
Jonah
was incredible. He scurried up the hill like it was nothing, though both Kate
and I feared for his life. A simple slip could easily have brought his head in
contact with one of the many sharp, pointy rocks. Toward the top I had to help
him as it was quite steep. We were all out of breath when we reached the top.
Once
we reached the lip of the cone, Kate would not let go of Jonah for fear he would
walk forward over the edge and slide down the almost vertical inside face of the
cone into the boiling cauldron of lava below. When the first big blast came (see
below) Kate practically dragged Jonah halfway down the hill as she
scurried to get away from the flying red-hot flaming rocks coming at us.
The
second of three large explosions we saw from the lip of the cone. We
saw dozens of smaller gasps where a few dozen small, flaming rocks would fly out
of the cone. We have no photo of the first explosion, the cameraman was to
stunned to raise the lens.
The
biggest of the eruptions we witnessed during our brief visit to the volcano, and
the most impressive. It hardly even begins to communicate what a sight it is in
person. But at least its something.
At
the volcano I accidentally shot this photo of Jonah's face.
The
final activity of the night was watching the driver and Stanley changing the
flat tire we got on the ride back.
Kate
and Jonah huddling on the roadside with flashlight in hand waiting patiently. It
was only about 7:30pm here.
Trolling
on the way North to Port Vila. Weather conditions were great though we didn't
catch a thing.
Kate
reading in the cockpit on passage to Port Vila.
Approaching
Port Vila at dawn. The passage from Tanna was about 22 hours. We left Tanna at
about 9am and arrived off the coast of Efate at sunrise the next day.
The
skipper at the nav station examining the chart of the approach to Port Vila
harbor.
Kate
has her post-arrival coffee in a lovely coffee shop cum imported food grocery in
Vila.
Jonah
had ice cream.
Just
five miles from Port Vila Mele Island, home of Hideaway Resort, is a lovely
place to relax. Beautiful coral reefs, some close in for snorkeling, others
further out for scuba diving, make Mele a perfect place for the Queen Jane to
stop and smell the flowers.
Another
shot of Mele Island from the anchorage.