Photo Gallery - May 2005
Pictures can be clicked to see a large
version of the image.
View
of the harbor at Kavieng to the South as seen from our anchorage. The harbor is
very large.
This
image of the shore shows the market (to the right) and a small pier used for
inter-island supply vessels (at center). The small beach to the left of the pier
is used by local "banana boats", 20ft open boats with outboards,
to load and unload for small trips to the nearby islands in the harbor and
beyond.
The
small pier at the market with an inter-island boat tied up. This is where we
land our dinghy when we want to visit the market. Though some vendors can be
found at the market on most days, the big market day is held Saturday between
6am and 10am.
One
of the rows of venders selling fresh produce. In the foreground, an
unidentifiable type of greens, then carrots and oranges can be seen.
On
this table you can see sugar cane, carrots, corn, cucumbers and more greens.
Market
day attracts huge crowds of people and sometimes a school band sets up a small
stage and plays for the people just to the side of the main market area.
These
men are selling tobacco. Many people in Kavieng can be seen smoking this locally
grown tobacco from a pipe like my grandfather used to.
The
market buildings are nowhere near large enough to accommodate all the vendors
which stream into the town on Saturday so dozens set up blankets on the parade
ground next to the buildings. These people are selling fish, roasted or smoked
in leaves. Also popular are crabs which are sold live with a broad leaf under
them and tied up with string.
You
can even buy clothes at the market.
On
the first market day we were in Kavieng we bought a ton of vegetables and fruit.
Since we left Pohnpei in mid-January the atolls we visited were devoid of
produce other then the typical atoll staples of papaya, bananas and breadfruit.
Here we can see cucumbers and scallions (green onions) both hugely popular on
the Queen Jane (especially scallions which are one of the triumvirate of Chinese
cooking, garlic and ginger being the other two).
Kate
washes and dries our newly purchased produce before it is stored away, most of
it in the fridge. Here we can see green peppers and a local variety of potaoe
which seems to be close to a sweet potatoe but it white (and delicious).
This
photo shows long beans (an Asian variety of green bean) and eggplants,
another popular pair of vegetables with us which are fortunately available in
great abundance here. We also purchased corn (the first time ever in the tropics
we have seen it), pineapples, lemons and limes, among others.
We
visited this resort outside of Kavieng called the Treehouse. It was not
operating when we visited but the caretaker showed us around. The main building
is seen in this photo and is 3 or 4 stories high, mounted in the base of a huge
tree.
The
second floor outdoor dining area.
The
back of the main building, facing the beach.
The
beautiful beach at the Treehouse resort.
Next
to the main building are four bungalows mounted on stilts which are quite
lovely. They are literally on the beach. Each has a veranda facing the
ocean.
One
last shot showing one of the bungalows. I understand they have a web site and
that the prices are very reasonable (about US$30 per night I believe). Most of
the visitors are Australians and Kiwis with an occasional European guest. I
expect few Americans consider this as a vacation destination because of the
distance and difficulty in travelling to this part of the world. But if one were
to plan a Pacific holliday to Fiji or Australia, a stop at the Treehouse would
not be difficult to include.
The
town of Kavieng. Not much to see in this picture, the town is well spread
out.
The
largest hardware store in town, Steamships Hardware, is housed in this huge
orange building.
Just
next to Steamships is the largest supermarket in the town, Andersons Food Town.
It doesn't look like much on the outside, but inside you can find most of the
things any cruiser would hope to find in the way of groceries. They also have a
wholesale annex where you can purchased bulk quantities of flour, sugar, sodas,
at reduced prices.
In
the back of a pickup getting a ride back to the market pier with our 5 jerry
jugs just filled with gasoline.
We
were all sick while in Kavieng with some mysterious virus (which we thought
might be malaria). To while away the hours on board we worked on a jigsaw
puzzle.
Here
we get to the last few pieces. Finally!
After
leaving Kavieng to work our way South to the Louisiades we made several stops.
The first stop, for just one night, was Tabar Island, seen here. It was very
beautiful, but, the flys were uncountable and the locals (who visited us in
canoes in the afternoon) reported the mangroves were filled with crocodiles.
We
got these giant grapefruits (or pampelmouse) in trade from locals who visited us
at Tabar. They are the size of vollyballs and have rinds over an inch thick. The
fruit inside is pinkish and sweeter then normal grapefruits.
The
view from astern leaving Tabar Island.
Our
next stop after Tabar was Ambittle in the Feni Islands. We intended to stop only
for a few days but bad weather ended up keeping us there for 10 days.
View
ashore from our anchorage at Ambittle. The small wharf is used by inter-island
trading boats.
The
'village' where we were anchored at Ambittle held only 30 or 40 people, all one
big extended family. This beach fronts the homes of the local people which are
set back a little. The people were very friendly and spoke English very well.
One of the men was a school teacher who traveled each morning to the other side
of the island where several large villages and the school are located.
St.
John's island is a tiny speck of land which sits 100 yds off the main island of
Ambittle. Its sandbars and reefs extend from each side of the island forming a
protected channel inside which we anchored.
This
reef, which extends from one side of St. John's island keeps the anchorage calm.
A
group of girls from Ambittle who Kate brought aboard to have a visit.
Jonah
and one of the many visitors who paddled out to visit us while we were anchored
at Ambittle.
Jonah
doing schoolwork. Deep in concentration. Wearing his Harvard University shirt.
Jonah
in a canoe with a local boy.
Jonah
paddling the canoe.
Our
next stop after Ambittle was Green (or Nissen) Island. Nissen is a raised coral
atoll which supports a large population due to its incredibly deep and fertile
soil. During the four days we spent there canoe after canoe paddled out to visit
us and trade vegetables. The diversity of the produce grown here is incredible.
We traded for pineapples, string beans, green peppers and hot peppers,
cucumbers, scallions, oranges, lemons, limes, eggplant and bananas.
Two
adorable kids in a canoe at Green Island.
The
pass into the lagoon at Green Island can be seen here between the main island
(at left) and the small island at right. The clouds visible are fairly
representative of the weather we had the entire time we were there.
The
lagoon at Green Island as seen from our anchorage. The island was very beautiful
and the people friendly, but we had to get South before the prevailing Southerly
winds returned, so our stay here was brief.
