Photo Gallery - September 2003
Pictures can be clicked to see a large
version of the image.
The
Sailing Vessel "Toucan" from Seattle with Tom and Joan aboard. Shown
here anchored at Awei Island in the Maskalynes. Tom and Joan used to live about
a mile from where we lived in Redmond, Washington. They have been cruising for
10 years in the Pacific Ocean and have no plans to leave any time soon.
Also
at Awei we met "Wind Runner" from San Francisco with Martin and
Christie aboard. Martin is English and Christie is from California which is
where they bought and outfitted Wind Runner. We've spent several weeks in
company with them and will be seeing a lot more of them as they are also headed
for Micronesia.
The
island of Ambrym which we passed to our South on our way to Pentecost from the
Maskalynes. Ambrym is home to 2 active volcanoes and many cruisers hike to the
rim to view it. Since it is a 4 hour hike in each direction we choose to give it
a miss (just try making Jonah walk 8 hours).
The
view from the coast of Pentecost as we approached Homo Bay showing the Eastern
tip of Ambrym on the right side of the photo. At night we were able to sit in
the cockpit and watch the volcanoes erupt. The distance is about 10 miles. Our
first night anchored here the captain called to the crew to come on deck. When
asked what for he said "To see the volcano on Ambrym" the response was
"yeah sure". When they came on deck they were all ooohs and
ahhhs. Unfortunately photos taken did not come out well.
Approaching
the anchorage at Pentecost. The island is long narrow strip of land oriented
roughly North/South. The entire lee coast (West side) is flat calm water with
anchorages every 10 miles.
A
view from the anchorage at Homo Bay. You can see a few structures ashore where
the village sits and a canoe which had just stopped by to offer us some fruit
for sale.
The
view of the Northern end of the anchorage showing the offlying "Cook
Rock" presumably named by the intrepid explorer himself. Though the island
is basically a narrow strip, indentations form semi-open roadsteads which are
essentially huge open bays. Cook Rock is at the Northern point of Homo Bay.
Another
view of the shore from Homo Bay.
One
final shot of the shore taken from the Queen Jane at anchor in Homo Bay.
Kate
relaxes in the cockpit as we motor North along the placid, windless coast of
Pentecost.
Approaching
the anchorage at Loltong at the Northern end of Pentecost Island. The bay was
exceptionally beautiful with coral reefs guarding the entrance to the anchorage.
A
view of the anchorage at Loltong taken from the Queen Jane.
Queen
Jane's inflatable tender at rest hanging off the stern in the crystal clear
waters of Loltong Bay.
View
of the beach and part of the village at Loltong.
This
was the view from the Queen Jane looking out of the bay at Loltong. Note the
small breaking waves crashing on the barrier reef which protects the
anchorage.
Jonah
poses with the of the local kids at Loltong. He spent a lot of time at Loltong
playing with the kids on the beach.
A
large pig in a cage on the beach was one of Jonah's favorite things to see at
Loltong. This pig, who is kept in a cage to prevent him from damaging his
valuable tusks which grow into a circular pattern, was a gift to the local chief
from a neighboring island.
If
you look carefully at the larger version of this photo you can just make
out his tusks. The tusks are coerced to grow in a circular pattern by removing
the pigs upper molars which the tusks normally oppose. Pig with tusks that grow
to two full circles are the most valued.
The
anchorage at Loltong viewed from ashore. Loltong was one of the most beautiful
places we stayed during our visit to Vanuatu. Plus we were the only boat there
until our fourth day.
This
photo of a house at Loltong was taken just across the road from the beach. Of
the villages we visited in Vanuatu, Loltong had some of the most well maintained
and manicured homes.
This
is an image of the road which runs down along the beach in Loltong. Though
mostly for walking there are vehicles (pickup trucks) which provide transport to
other parts of Pentecost that come through here.
The
Nakamel (meeting house) of Loltong. Notice the style of the roof which
comes down almost completely to the ground on both sides. This is to provide
shade keeping the walls and interior cool.
Another
shot of the front of the Nakamel. The Nakamel is seen in every village in
Vanuatu and is the focal point for community life. Traditionally only men are
admitted to the Nakamel, in modern times most villages have done away with that
regulation. The Nakamel is also used for local events like plays and singing
events which are very popular in Vanuatu. Note also the large log which blocks
the door to the building. This is to prevent pigs from entering.
The
inside of this particular Nakamel is not very attractive. It is, however, always
cool even in the heat of the day. The large pit with the pile of rocks behind it
is the fireplace. Many Nakamels have rows of benches and other forms of modern
seating, though this one does not. Presumably mats are laid out for seating
during meetings and events.
These
women are working to prepare kava root for export. Many villages on Pentecost
are involved in the commercial production of kava (as well as production for
personal use). Kava is exported from Pentecost to a variety of places, most
notably Fiji where the demand is incredible. For export the kava roots are first
cleaned and sliced into small pieces then dried in the sun. The local kava drink
is produced from fresh roots not dried as in Fiji and is much more potent. Kava
is the root of the pepper plant Piper Mythesticum.
The
cemetery at Loltong. We do not recall seeing a formal cemetery in any
other village we visited.
Another
view of the bay at Loltong taken from the property of Philip who runs a small
"restaurant" in Loltong. Reservations must be made a day in advance,
usually for a group of people.
Kate
chatting with a local woman (holder her granddaughter) in Loltong.
Jonah
looking cute on deck.
.
After
Loltong we sailed to Asanvari, clearly our favorite spot in Maewo. When we left
Pentecost we were asked (via radio from Maewo) to transport Cody (in foreground)
to Asanvari (he was coming in on the plane from Santo - thee is no airport on
Maewo). When we got to Leone (the airport) we found 10 other people who had all
been to a wedding two weeks earlier and were waiting for someone to give them a
ride to Maewo. We took 11 people in all (including Cody who is Chief Nelson's
son) with their baggage. It was a gentle passage and all aboard had fun.
The
anchorage at Asanvari as seen from the beach.
The
anchorage as seen from the top of a hill. This photo courtesy of Christie on
"Wind Runner".
The
Asanvari "Yacht Club". Though really more a restaurant and
entertainment center, this building is used to host native dancing exhibitions
and dinner for visiting cruisers who pay about $15 each. The food is prepared by
Chief Nelson's son Nixon who was trained in Santo and does a fine job. Strong
kava is also served. The building was designed and built by visiting Alaskan
cruisers Gene and Robbie on "Noason". Gene was adopted by the village
and gained a social "rank" by performing several ritual pig killings
and hosting the attendant feasts.
The
Lobster float at the beach with Jonah aboard.
The
local kids really liked playing with the giant inflatable lobster. Needless to
say Jonah was very popular here.
A
mother and her baby at Asanvari.
This
view of one of the boats anchored at Asanvari shows the island of Ambae (aka
Aoba) in the background. Ambae was the inspiration for Robert Michener's
"Bali Hai" which he saw only from a distance while stationed on the
island of Espirito Santo (about 20 miles on the other side of Ambae).
The
beach at Asanvari. This photo shows the little bay at its most attractive. Blue
skies, crystal clear water and green hills. Paradise on earth.
Some
kids who just couldn't get enough of the lobster float paddled out to check it
out as it trailed behind the Queen Jane at anchor.
Jonah
taking a ride in the canoe while the other boy floats on the lobster.
The
approach to Lolowai on Ambae island on a windless, blue sunny day. The water
outside the anchorage was beautifully clear though the inner bay was so well cut
off the water was stagnant and greenish.
Kate
stands on the mast steps to get a better view of the shallow coral at the
entrance to the inner harbor at Lolowai.
The
view from the cockpit at anchor in Lolowai.
Another
shot showing some of the interesting rock formations guarding the anchorage at
Lolowai.
The
village of Lolowai as seen from the anchorage.
A
final shot of the bay showing one of the other boats at anchor.
These
two girls where in a canoe and were having a water fight with some kids in
another canoe when they tipped over into the water. Kate took them aboard the
dinghy while they righted their craft and emptied the water from it.
Jonah
reads peacefully in the saloon.
This
picture shows one trip to town's worth of provisions. While at Luganville in
Santo we re-stocked the boat from local grocery stores. Santo is the last place
we can buy provisions until we reach Tarawa in Kiribati, and that place is not
known for the shopping. Majuro in the Marshall Islands (which we will reach a
month after Tarawa) will be the first place where serious provisions can be
purchased.
Kate
talking on the radio with friends on another boat.
A
wreck we passed at Uren Pt. on the way to Petersen Bay on the East coast of
Espirito Santo. Just after this photo was taken the fishing rod screamed and we
had a hookup. Unfortunately, due to "operator error" the fish managed
to escape.
The
low coastal plain of Eastern Espirito Santo. One look and you can see why Santo
is the "beef basket" of the South Pacific. Vanuatu produces huge
amounts of beef much of which is shipped to Japan for export. We found the most
inexpensive meat we have ever seen in Santo. For example, we bought about 10lbs
of Filet Mignon for about $3/lb. Our freezer was well stocked with beef when we
left Santo.
Marissa,
from the Kiwi yacht "Tevakanui" comes to visit Jonah in her kayak.
The
anchorage at Petersen Bay was flat calm and beautiful. We spent a lovely week
there. Highlights were the "blue holes" where clear, blue fresh water
swimming holes are just a dinghy ride away up a short river! See next month's
photos for more on this fantastic place.
